Smooth Walls. Done Right.

Drywall installation, repair, and finishing in Baltimore and the Baltimore area, MD. One call gets you a free look at your walls and a written price — no pressure, no surprises.

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(240) 470-7236
Serving Baltimore, MD and surrounding areas
Typical projects: $500 to $5,000. Prices vary by project scope — contact us for a free written estimate.

That crack above the door is not going to fix itself

Here is what we hear every week in Baltimore. A doorknob went through the bedroom wall — again. A crack opened along the ceiling seam and keeps getting longer. The ceiling has a brown ring from a leak you fixed two years ago. The last guy's tape job is showing through the paint.

Small problems. But they stare at you every single day. And the longer you wait, the bigger the fix gets.

What we do about it

We are a Baltimore crew, and walls are our trade. We patch the holes. We re-tape cracks so they stay shut. We cut out wet drywall and hang fresh board. We hang, tape, and finish whole rooms, basements, and additions. Then we sand it smooth and match your texture so the repair vanishes.

Drywall repair. Drywall installation. Taping and finishing. Texture matching. Popcorn ceiling removal. Water damage rebuilds. Our partner contractor is licensed and insured, with decades of drywall experience behind every job — which is why homeowners across the region call us the #1 Drywall Contractor in the DMV.

See drywall installation, drywall repair, taping and finishing, texture, and popcorn ceiling removal.

Here is the part most folks do not expect

Once we are in your house with the walls opened up or freshly finished, about half our customers ask the same question: "While you are here, can you...?" Paint the room. Refresh the bathroom. Sometimes the whole kitchen.

Yes. We do that too. Most of our drywall jobs end with us rolling paint — one crew, one call, no hunting for a painter. And when the project grows, we grow with it: bathrooms, kitchens, full remodeling. You called one crew. You should not need to call three more.

What we do

Drywall installation

New rooms, finished basements, additions, garage conversions — we hang the board, tape the seams, and finish it to paint-ready smooth. See drywall installation.

Drywall repair

Holes from doorknobs, cracks along seams, dents, nail pops, water stains. Most repairs take two short visits. See drywall repair.

Taping and finishing

The step that decides whether walls look good or not. We tape, coat, and sand to a flat finish that takes paint evenly. See taping and finishing.

Texture and popcorn removal

Orange peel, knockdown, or smooth — and we scrape off dated popcorn ceilings and refinish them flat. See drywall texturing and popcorn ceiling removal.

Water damage and ceilings

Wet drywall has to come out — patching over it just hides mold food. We cut it out, check behind it, and rebuild it right. See water damage drywall repair and ceiling repair.

Why the finish matters more than the board

Here is something most homeowners learn the hard way: the drywall panels are the cheap part. The finish is the job. Two crews can hang the same board, and one wall will look like glass while the other shows every seam under the paint.

The difference is in the mud work — how the tape is bedded, how many coats go on, how carefully each coat is sanded, and whether the final sanding is done with a light held at an angle so flaws show up before the paint does. We do all of that. It takes longer. It is the reason our walls disappear and cheap work does not.

There are five standard finish levels in the trade, from Level 0 (bare board, temporary) to Level 5 (skim-coated glass-smooth). Most homes want Level 4 — smooth enough that paint looks even. We explain drywall finishing levels in plain English so you know what you are paying for.

The problems we fix every week

If you are seeing any of these, our signs you need drywall repair guide walks through what each one means.

New drywall: what a real job looks like

A proper installation runs in order: hang the board, tape the seams, three coats of mud (each one wider than the last), sand between coats, texture if you want it, and a final check with angled light. Rushing the drying between coats is how you get cracks later — mud shrinks as it dries, and each coat needs its turn.

For basements and bathrooms, the board itself changes: moisture-resistant panels and the right gap detailing at the floor. Regular board in a damp basement is a mold problem waiting to happen. See basement drywall and our guide to types of drywall.

Wondering about timing? Our timeline guide lays out how long each kind of job really takes — and why.

What affects the price

Four things move the number: how much wall is involved, what condition it is in, what finish level you want, and how much repair-versus-new work the job mixes. A single patched hole and a whole-house hang are different universes, and most jobs fall somewhere between.

Nationally, homeowners often see small repairs in the low hundreds and full-room hang-and-finish work in the low thousands — but your walls decide your number, not a national average.

A note on prices: material and labor costs move up and down, and no two jobs need the same work. Treat any numbers on this page as starting points, not quotes. Your written estimate after our free visit is the real number for your project.

Our drywall cost guide breaks down what drives the price, and our cost calculator gives you a rough starting point from your room dimensions.

Texture: the look of your walls

After the mud work comes the surface you actually see. Smooth walls are the modern standard — clean, and they show off paint color best. Orange peel adds a subtle dimpled texture that hides minor flaws. Knockdown is bolder, with a flattened stucco-like pattern common in many Maryland homes.

The rule that matters: match what is already there. A smooth patch in the middle of an orange-peel wall will flash like a sign. We match your existing texture so repairs vanish. Full detail at drywall texturing.

Where we work

We are based in Baltimore and work across the Baltimore area: Canton, Fells Point, Federal Hill, Highlandtown, Hampden, Roland Park, Charles Village, and the surrounding towns. See the full list on our service areas page — every town gets its own page with local notes.

The work, up close

Drywall is a process: hang it straight, tape it tight, mud it wide, sand it smooth. Here is what each step looks like. Photos show typical drywall work, not specific job sites.

Baltimore homes are different: rowhouses, plaster, and old walls

Half the houses we work in were built before drywall was common. In Fell's Point, Canton, and Federal Hill, the walls are often plaster over wood lath — hard, thick, and unforgiving. Plaster cracks differently than drywall, patches differently, and takes a different hand.

When plaster is solid, we usually skim-coat it smooth instead of tearing it out — faster, cleaner, and you keep the solidity and quiet that make old rowhouses feel like fortresses. When it is crumbling off the lath, it comes down and drywall goes up in its place. We will tell you which one you have got during the free estimate.

Rowhouses bring their own quirks. Party walls shared with the neighbor mean we plan for noise and attachment. Narrow staircases mean full 4-by-8 sheets do not always make the turn — we cut sheets down or work with 54-inch board. Old framing is rarely straight, so we shim and float the board until the wall reads flat. None of this is a problem. It is just Baltimore, and we work in it every day.

Historic districts and lead paint: two Baltimore realities

Fell's Point, Canton, Federal Hill, and other historic districts answer to Baltimore's historic preservation commission (CHAP). The good news: interior drywall work almost never needs historic approval — CHAP governs what the street sees, not your living room walls. If your project touches the exterior, we flag it before work starts.

Lead paint is the bigger deal. A huge share of Baltimore's housing stock went up before 1978, when lead paint was banned. Federal EPA rules require lead-safe work practices whenever a renovation disturbs painted surfaces in a pre-1978 home — containment, careful cleanup, the works. We follow those practices, and we talk through it with you during the estimate so there are no surprises. If you have small kids in the house, tell us up front and we plan around it.

What it costs in the Baltimore area

Starting points, not quotes — your walls decide your number. A small patch, like a doorknob hole, often lands in the low hundreds. A medium repair — a sheet-sized section, a water-damaged ceiling cutout — usually runs several hundred. Hanging and finishing a standard room typically lands in the low thousands, more for high ceilings or heavy texture matching.

Ceilings cost more than walls. Overhead work is slower, and the finishing has to be better — light rakes across a ceiling and shows everything. Popcorn ceiling removal and refinishing is its own job, priced by the square foot, with the skim-coating doing most of the work.

Two Baltimore-specific cost drivers: plaster work and lead-safe practices both take more time than plain drywall, and older homes often need both. That is real money — but it is cheaper than doing it wrong twice. Same rule as everywhere on this site: these are starting points. Your written estimate after our free visit is the real number.

How a job runs, start to finish

1. You call or send the form. Tell us what is wrong — hole, crack, stain, room that needs hanging — and where you are.

2. Free visit, written price. We look at the walls in person, measure everything, check behind the problem, and hand you one written number. No fee, no obligation.

3. We seal the area. Plastic sheeting goes up, floors get covered, dust control runs during sanding. Your house stays livable.

4. The work, in order. Hang, tape, three coats of mud with drying time between each, sand, texture to match. Nobody rushes the mud — that is how cracks are born.

5. The angled-light walkthrough. We check every wall with a light held low across the surface before we call it done. If a seam shows, we fix it then — not after the paint.

6. Paint — and whatever is next. Most customers have us roll the paint while we are there. If the project grows into a bathroom or kitchen, we keep going. One crew, one call.

Mistakes that cost Baltimore homeowners real money

How it starts

Call (240) 470-7236 or send the form. Tell us what is wrong — a hole, a crack, a stain, a room that needs hanging. We come look, free. You get a written price. Then smooth walls.

Check it yourself — or skip the homework

Do not take our word for any of this. Look at our work areas, read the guides, and compare us against any other drywall crew in the Baltimore area.

Or skip the homework: call (240) 470-7236 and we will come look at your walls free and give you a written price — before you spend a dollar.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does drywall work cost?

It depends on the job. Small repairs often land in the low hundreds; hanging and finishing a room usually runs into the thousands. A note on prices: material and labor costs move up and down, and no two jobs need the same work. Treat any numbers here as starting points, not quotes. Your written estimate after our free visit is the real number for your project.

Do you give free estimates?

Yes. We come to your home, look at the walls, measure, and give you a written price. The visit and the estimate are both free, and there is no obligation.

How long does a drywall repair take?

Most small repairs — a hole, a crack, a water stain — take one visit to fix and a second short visit after the mud dries. A full room hang and finish usually takes three to five working days because each coat of mud needs to dry before the next one.

Will the repair match the rest of my wall?

That is the whole craft. We match the texture — orange peel, knockdown, smooth — so the repair disappears under paint. If a seam ever shows through, we come back and fix it.

Do you clean up after the job?

Yes. We seal off the work area with plastic, run dust control while we sand, and clean up every day. Your home stays livable while we work.

Can you fix water-damaged drywall?

Yes, and this one matters: drywall that stayed wet needs to come out, not just get patched over. We cut out the damaged section, check what is behind it, and hang fresh board. If the leak is still active, we will tell you to fix the plumbing or roof first.

Do you hang drywall in basements?

Yes. Basements need moisture-resistant board and the right detailing around concrete walls. We do a lot of basement finishing work across the Baltimore area.

Which areas do you serve?

Baltimore and all of the Baltimore area — Canton, Fells Point, Federal Hill, Highlandtown, Hampden, Roland Park, and the surrounding towns. See our service areas page for the full list.

My rowhouse has plaster walls, not drywall. Can you help?

Yes — many older homes in Fells Point, Canton, and Federal Hill are plaster over wood lath. When the plaster is solid, we skim-coat it smooth. When it is crumbling off the lath, we tear it out and hang drywall. We will tell you which one you have got at the free estimate, with the same written-price promise either way.

My home was built before 1978. Should I worry about lead paint?

Take it seriously, yes. Lead paint was common before the 1978 ban, and much of Baltimore’s housing stock predates it. Federal EPA rules require lead-safe work practices whenever a renovation disturbs painted surfaces in a pre-1978 home — containment, careful cleanup, verified at the end. We follow those practices and talk it through during the estimate. If you have young kids, tell us up front.

Do I need a permit for drywall work in Baltimore City or Baltimore County?

For straightforward repair and replacement — patching, re-hanging a room, refinishing — usually no. Permits come into play when the job changes the structure: new walls, moving walls, or work tied to electrical or plumbing. If your project crosses that line, we tell you during the estimate and handle the paperwork side with you.

I live in a historic district. Is that a problem?

Not for interior drywall. Baltimore’s historic preservation commission (CHAP) governs exteriors in districts like Fell’s Point, Canton, and Federal Hill — what the street sees. Your living room walls are your business. If a project touches the outside of the house, we flag it before anyone lifts a tool.

My rowhouse stairs are narrow. Can you even get full drywall sheets in?

Usually, yes — with planning. We measure the tight turns during the estimate. When a full 4-by-8 sheet will not make the turn, we cut sheets down or work with 54-inch board hung horizontally. Old-house logistics are half the job in Baltimore, and we handle them every week.

Will you paint when the drywall is done?

Yes — and about half our customers go that route. We finish the walls paint-ready, then roll the paint. One crew, one call, no waiting on a painter who may or may not show up. If the project grows into a bathroom or kitchen refresh, we handle that too.

What is the difference between your work and a handyman’s?

The finish. Hanging drywall boards is straightforward — a careful handyman can do it. Making seams, texture, and corners disappear under paint is a separate craft: proper taping, three coats of mud, angled-light sanding, texture matching. That craft is our home base — our crew does it every day. It is also why we give written prices and run real dust control: the details a generalist skips.

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